Loltong, Pentecost

Waterfall Bay became a no-anchor zone when we woke up and were sloshing around like we were stuck in a top loader washing machine. Goodbyeeeee, goodbyeeee… We sailed for Lolteng, further up the coast – evil Pandion overtook us with all their sails up. They looked pretty terrific. 

Pentecost. Vanuatu.
The good ship Pandion

Loltong was vastly more sheltered than our previous anchorage – we were getting very strong winds shooting down from the surrounding hills, but the water was pretty flat. A relief. 

Ashore we met Matthew and Marie who are in charge of the yacht club – or the resuscitation of the yacht club, because it was mostly a pile of bamboo, wood and woven walls. While we were there Matthew burnt all the crud that remained and by the time we left there were neat piles of all the stuff that could be re-purposed/re-used and the concrete slab was swept. 

Pentecost. Vanuatu.
A flower with wings…

Almost all the villages we have been to are beautiful in some way, but this one was a bit heartstopping – the ground undulated and walking tracks curved – little huts were standing on top of small rocky outcrops. The nakamal was huge – and full of bags of rice. 

Walking into someone else’s village used to feel quite intimidating – but (and it’s obviously perfectly obvious) if you are happy to say hello and meet everyone, they are equally happy to meet you. Everyone at Loltong made us feel welcome…

Pentecost. Vanuatu.
One of the bungalows…

I’m always interested in how villages access the most important necessity – water. The majority we’ve been to recently are lucky enough to have freshwater springs up in the hills that can be piped down to a few taps for everyone to use. This is the case at Lolton – and we were able to use a tap just behind the yacht club site to fill up our jerry cans – a lot of laundry was done – in amongst the rain-showers. The weather is grey and erratic. 

A highlight was watching a kastom dance done by most of the women in the village; they sang, while three or four men drummed and did a kind of call and response song. This was in preparation for a big occasion that was happening three or four days later involving many villages.

Both ourselves and our adventuring companions spent time snorkelling – looking for things that had blown off our boats in the strong gusts – buckets, wetsuit… I spent an hour or two scraping the bottom of our boat where there is no antifoul – and in doing so increased our boat speed by about a knot. 

M has not been swimming for about a month because he wants his sea-ulcer to completely heal – although this doesn’t seem to stop him from scouting out good surf spots… Although it doesn’t look like it in the photo, Small DB’s ulcer is now healing very well. 

Pentecost. Vanuatu.
DB in her dress I made her from a top I inherited from the lovely Belinda in Yamba.


  1. Rosalind Hopkins

    Ahoy there Bella Luna. Such a lot of great experiences. Michelle told us today that you are on the way back from Vanuatu and since I had not dipped into one of your blogs since you were in Tas, I have been catching up on some of your travels in Vanuatu.
    We had thought it was only OFs like us who had trouble with prolonged humidity, but it seems not. Years later, after months in the PNG highlands, dreaming of beaches, I readily recall my disappointment when I finally got to swim on a visit to New Britain and found the water tepid. So I absolutely understand your toes seeking a cooler current, Beth.
    Glad to see you have been sharing anchorages with some kid boats. Greg had told us that the lack of playmates had been a problem when travelling up the east coast. Love the cartoon at the top of the blog. And the photos.
    Am I right in thinking BL now has some extra weather protection at the helm? Near the start of our build I asked a sailor friend what she considered the “must haves”. The reply: “Shade, and then more shade. You can’t have enough of it!” We are considering the possibilities of a big sunshade over most of the boat when at anchor.
    BTW I wonder if you have penicillin powder in your first aid kit? It was the best treatment for tropical ulcers fifty years ago, but maybe something has surpassed it since.
    We are working towards a primer paint coat after life has continued to get in the way of progress.
    Stay safe. Our best to you all, Ros and Peter
    PS D who took over the shed at CC has a little dog who complains about camping on the job!7

  2. Post

    Hey Roz! So cool to read your comment – and I will ask my friend who is a nurse about antibiotic powder. The other thing I’ve heard that is good is something called ‘dragons blood’. Seriously. And yes to the shade. Equally important – and we don’t have any – are those things you put over the hatches that stop rain getting in, but still allow air through. That was a real killer – we had a lot of wet days, and having to use the stove to cook in a closed up boat – HORRIFYING!! Also – learn from what we did not do – I SO wish we had used copper to antifoul the bottom of the boat – just my two cents.
    Please say hi to Peter for us 🙂

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